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Brie; Buying and keeping

Never buy it if you smell a trace of ammonia (as this is a sign of it being extremely overripe), but with the same token, avoid cheeses with a hard, chalky centre - as they might not ripen, and show off their full potential. If firm to the touch, or a slice looks chalky in the middle, leave to ripen in a larder or in the warmest part of the fridge until the centre just starts to ooze. It should then be kept at a colder temperature - to arrest the ripening process. Remove as much as you intend to eat and hold at room-temperature for about an hour before before eating. See 'Brie'; 'Brie; History'

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