This Elizabethan manor house, now a smart hotel/restaurant, takes its name from an ancient drovers way that runs past the building. The partly-panelled dining room extends into a conservatory and overlooks a delightful sunken garden with a pond and fountain.
Starters offered, might include the likes of 'Confit of John Dory with braised Oxtail, Salsify and Morels'; 'Pan-fried Shetland Salmon with sautéed Crayfish, Creamed Cauliflower and Crayfish Sauce' or Pressed Terrine of Quail, Ham hock and Foie Gras.
Main courses, perhaps 'Roast Wood Pigeon with peppered Peaches, Sweet Potato purée, Chestnuts and Foie Gras'; 'Cornish Lamb with Spinach, with Baby Leeks and a Rosemary Sauce' or 'Pavé of Salmon, with a Courgette Flower filled with Lobster Mousse'.
Desserts maintain the high standard - maybe 'Warm Pear Tart with Cinnamon Ice Cream' and 'Dark Chocolate and Marmalade Tart with Milk Sorbet and Butterscotch Sauce' - and suchlike. Their selection of British cheese is excellent.
Service is formal, but friendly.
No jeans or trainers and no mobile phones - but there is also the less formal Orchard Brasserie, offering less elaborate dishes.
- Food Style: Modern French
- Lunch: all week, 12.00-14.00, Mon-Sat Set L £19.95 (2 courses), £25 (3 courses); set L Sun £24.50 (2 courses), £29 (3 courses)
- Dinner: all week, 19.00-21.30; Set D £37.95 (3 courses); Tasting Menu £69
- Seats: 36, plus 24 outside
- Wine: An interesting wine list, has around half a dozen at around the £25 mark; and there are about half a dozen by the glass
- Children's portions: Yes, when possible
- Wheelchair access: Yes, but not lavatory
- Nearest station: Upper Hatherley
- Directions: 3 miles south of Cheltenham on the A46 (signposted Stroud), just past the village of Surdington. See the map on this page.
- Parking: Yes
- Closed: check on Christmas openings
- Outside eating
- Rooms available