Find this excellent restaurant with rooms on the edge of the Snowdonia National Park. The elegant stone-built house is set back from the road, but is easily found as it's sign-posted from the western edge of the village.
At the time of Bryan Webb's move from Hilaire in London in 2002, to his native homeland, the move seemed risky, as he was at the top of the London game - but the move has been entirely successful and for a while it's been one of Wales' top eateries; while the dining room with its crisp white napery, make this a destination for that special occasion.
The menu's are designed, without over complication, to show off the flavours of top-class ingredients - both local and from further afield; and these change a little with each service. Flavour and the quality of ingredients being entirely the name of the game, with no unnecessary gimmicks - such as our much-hated 'foam'.
Expect the likes of 'Griddled Scallops with Vegetable Relish & Rocket'; 'Dressed Crab with Fennel & Pea Shoot Salad'; 'Grilled Red Mullet with Aubergine Purée, Chili & Garlic Oil'; 'Leek Risotto with Shaved Truffles' among the starters - and there are sometimes really skilled dishes, such as 'Crubeens (Stuffed Pig's Trotters) with Beetroot Relish, Watercress & Dandelion Salad - which are certainly difficult to imitate at home.
Depending on the season, maybe 'Loin of local Lamb with Tapenade & Couscous'; 'Welsh Black Fillet of Beef Au Poivre'; 'Madgett's Farm Duck Breast with Confit Leg and Wild Garlic Bubble & Squeak'; 'Roast Bresse Pigeon with St Georges Mushrooms' and 'Fillet of Turbot with Salsify & Broad Beans' among the mains.
Cheeses from Neal's Yard are excellent; but so are the puds, such as 'Steamed Ginger'; 'Grilled Pineapple with Chili Syrup & Cocinut Sorbet' or first-rate 'Lemon Tart'.
While vegetarians are welcome, they are advised to phone ahead to guarantee something special.
Service, charmingly-led by Susan Webb, is both professional and friendly.
Their lunches are a serious bargain, as is a stay in one of their comfortable bedrooms (see our Places to Stay section.
- Food Style: Modern British
- Lunch: Fri to Sun 12.45-14.00 (Sun 14.30); set Fri & Sat £22 (2 courses) to £29; mains about £20 to £26; set L Sun £29
- Dinner: all week 19.00-21.00 (21.30 in summer); set D £55 (3 courses); Tasting Menu £75 (8 courses)
- Seats: 40 (plus 10 outside)
- Wine: an excellent wine list is particularly strong on the New World, and plenty by the half-bottle and glass - mark-ups are modest.
- Children's portions: Yes
- Wheelchair access: Yes, including and lavatory
- Directions: See the map on this page
- Parking: Yes
- Closed: L Mon to Thurs; 2 weeks Jan
- Outside eating
- Rooms available