Situated on the edge of the Brecon Beacons, this old stone country pub offers some of the best food around. The Inkin's believe in simplicity, there are solid wooden beams and pillars, comfortable sofas and warm fires, but not horse brasses or unnecessary trimmings. The owning Inkin brothers have also taken over The Gurnard' Head in Treen, Cornwall (q.v.), which is run on similar lines. Nearly all the food offered is local, some of it organic and grown on the premises.
Lunch can be a lighter affair - with one-course dishes such as 'Welsh Cheese Ploughman's with Soda Bread and Pickles' and 'Mediterranean Fish Soup' satisfying some appetites. A more ambitious set lunch is also tempting.
For dinner - depending on the season, expect the likes of 'Mussels in Coconut Milk and Coriander'; 'Wild Mushroom Risotto' and 'Dressed Portland Crab with a Young Vegetable Salad and a Spiced Tomato Syrup' among the starters.
Perhaps 'Plaice Fillets, Roasted Wild Mushrooms, New Potatoes and Herb Oil'; 'Welsh Venison Stew', ' Local Rib-Eye Steak' or 'Oven-Roast Partridge, Muscat Grapes and Braised Puy Lentils' among the mains of a winter menu. Spring will bring milk-fed lamb and local asparagus.
'Roasted Almond Pannacotta with Strawberries and Rhubarb' and 'Sticky Toffee Pudding - set the style for desserts. There are always Welsh farmhouse cheeses in pea condition. The evening menu has the more expensive options, but a lighter bar version is also offered.
A place not to be missed, and if touring the neighbourhood, their comfortable bedrooms make an excellent base.
- Food Style: Modern British
- Lunch: all week 12.00-14.00 (Fri & Sat 14.30); Bar Food from about £11; set L £16 (2 courses), £21 (3 courses); set L Sun £19.75 (2 courses), £23.50 (3 courses)
- Dinner: all week 18.00-21.00; mains about £16 to £20
- Seats: 45, plus 25 outside
- Wine: a carefully-chosen wine list kicks off at around the £18 mark, and there's a good selection by the glass
- Children's portions: Yes, when possible
- Wheelchair access: Yes (including Lavatory)
- Nearest station: Cilmeri or Llangammarch Rail (about 13 miles)
- Directions: 5km east of Brecon on the A470. See the map on this page.
- Parking: Yes
- Closed: Mon L; 24th & 25th Dec
- Outside eating
- Rooms available