Although this restored 16th century inn masquerades under the banner of a pub, top-quality food is the raison d'etre for a visit here. The kitchen, under the leadership of Marc Paley, and that of the experienced owners Adrian and Helen Bannister - have carefully-sourced seasonal food from top suppliers; and if this has necessitated in a weekly visit to France - so be it.
Although they like to describe their food as Modern British in style, its roots lie firmly in French tradition.
Depending on the season, expect to find the likes of 'Foie Gras with Prune and Armagnac Chutney and Toasted Brioche'; 'Tartare of Blue Fin Tuna with Liquorice and Saffron Dressing' and 'Roquefort Cheese, Pear and Pear Vinaigrette' among the starters.
Maybe follow with 'Steamed Cornish Monkfish with Scallops, with Toulouse Cassoulet'; 'Baked Rack of Local Pig, Paisley Pudding, Black Mustard Seed, Apple and Ginger' or 'Sautéed Calf's Sweetbread with Petit Choucroute and Grain Mustard' to follow.
Food arrives beautifully presented, but it's still really the high quality of the ingredients that shine through.
Finish with 'Chocolate Sablée, Bitter Chocolate Mousse and Pistachio Sauce'; 'Date and Pecan Sticky Toffee Pudding' or excellent cheeses from 'La Fromagerie' (q.v.).
Service is friendly and professional.
- Food Style: Modern British
- Lunch: Mon-Sat 12.00-14.00, set L £14.50 (2 courses), £19.50 (3 courses); mains about £16 to £30
- Dinner: Mon-Fri 19.00-21.00, Sat 19.00 19.00-21.30; mains about £16 to £30; set D £27.95 (3 courses)
- Seats: 45, plus 20 outside
- Wine: an interesting list kicks off at around £20, and includes an impressive selection by the glass
- Children's portions: No children under 12
- Wheelchair access: Yes, including lavatory
- Nearest station: Maidenhead Rail
- Directions: See the map on page. It's on the A4130 just west of Hurley Village. If on the M4, leave at junction 4.
- Parking: Yes
- Closed: D Sun; all Mon; 2 weeks Christmas; 2 weeks August
- Rooms available