A modern restaurant, in every way - ranging from the crisp décor to the style of food on offer.
The kitchen combines top-quality local ingredients with what is presented as modern French cuisine. The restaurant is popular, but personally we hope the trend is transient - as although the style is artistic in its presentation, it's fashion led (either moving on from - or competing with - foam of some sort with each dish [which we also dislike as an affectation] .
Skill combined with honest flavour and substance is more to our tastes.
Starters such as 'Slow-cooked Hen's Egg, Globe Artichoke, Winter Truffle and Shimeji Mushrooms'; 'Caramelised Duck Foie Gras with Sweet Corn and Cocoa' and 'Snail Bonbons with Asparagus and Morels with a Watercress Emulsion and Pink Garlic Nougatine' were included in an early Spring menu, and set the general style.
To be followed by the likes of 'Pig's Trotter wrapped in Parma Ham with Black Pudding and Veal Sweetbread'; 'Rack of Ross-Shire Lamb with Shoulder Confit, Basil Macaroni and Bolognese Sauce' and 'Wild Sea Bass with Pink Grapefruit and Crab Couscous and Canneloni'.
Desserts continue to combine the least obvious of ingredients - if they're designed as a talking point they succeed - as flavour combinations, not always! You might find 'Dark Chocolate Mousse with Orange Jelly and Black Olive Tapenade'; 'Pannacotta, Roasted Banana, Banana Bread and Peanut Butter' among the listings.
The restaurant incorporates a smart Piano Bar, which is open throughout the day and offers an impressive selection of malt whiskys.
More reports please - we'd like to know your opinions.
- Food Style: Modern French
- Lunch: Tues-Sat 12.00-14.00; set L £12.95 (2 courses; desserts from £4); mains from £17
- Dinner: Tues-Sat 18.00-22.00; mains from £17
- Wine: a not over-long, but well-thought-out, list is based in France and kicks off at £18
- Nearest station: Edinburgh Waverley
- Directions: See the map at the top of the page.
- Parking: Street parking
- Closed: Sun, Mon & most Bank Holidays