This corner pub, previously The Prince Albert, has been renamed after the famous essayist, who lived nearby. It's worth seeking out if you're in the area, if you're in the area, as it offers both good food and a natural unpretentious feel not often found in city pubs these days. It still operates as a proper 'local' serving a good selection of hand-pulled beers and Breton cider.
On the food front, good home-style cooking (in the style of Elizabeth David) is the name of the game. The list of British and French dishes being displayed on a blackboard.
There are snacks, such as home-made sausage rolls and vegetable tart; plus starters/light dishes such as 'Potted Crab with Aioli'; 'Pork Rillettes with Cornichons & Toast' and 'Jerusalem Artichoke, Garlic & Rosemary Soup'.
Dishes such as 'Smoked Haddock & Leek Cakes with Salad & Hand-Cut Chips'; 'Asparagus, Sweet Potato & Chickpea Tagine with Crusty Bread'; 'Cottage Pie'; 'Fish Pie' and 'Merguez Sausage with Puy Lentils' set the style for mains.
Depending on the season, you might find 'Apple & Raisin Crumble with Custard' and 'Rhubarb Syllabub' among the puds - while those with a more savoury tooth might enjoy a plate of Brie de Meaux & Reblochon with Sauterne Jelly'.
Sunday lunch is particularly popular, so booking essential.
- Food Style: Best Pubs for Food
- Lunch: Food available Weds-Fri from 12.00-15.00, Sat 12.00-16.00, Sunday 12.00-18.00; mains about £10-£13
- Dinner: Food available Mon-Sat 18.00-21.30 Sun 19.00-21.00; mains about £10-£13
- Seats: 40, plus about 30 outside
- Wine: a concise list travels the world and has modest mark-ups
- Wheelchair access: Yes, but not lavatory
- Nearest station: Angel Underground
- Directions: See the map on this page
- Parking: Street parking
- Closed: L Mon & Tues; some Bank Holidays
- Outside eating