This unpretentious pub, to be found down a country lane, is under the ownership of Helen Browning - who also runs Eastbrook Farm, which produces top-quality organic meat, fruit, vegetables and hen's eggs (q.v.). These, plus fresh fish from Cornwall, are offered in the skilfully cooked meals here.
It's a real local, with pub games and real ales living happily alongside top-quality brasserie-style dishes.
These change with the seasons, but an early autumn snapshot brought 'Pancakes with Air-Dried Ham & Turnip Purée'; 'Cornish Mackerel Rillettes with Ciabatta Toast'; 'Grilled Sardines with Chili, Lemon & Salad' and 'Sticky Eastbrook Saddleback Farm Ribs' among the starters.
'Fettucine with Roasted Tomatoes, Parmesan & Chili Oil'; 'Cornish Monkfish "Osso Bucco" with Saffron Risotto'; 'Eastbrook Farm Saddleback Pork Belly, Slow-Cooked with Sherry & Fennel, Cannellini Beans & Roasted Tomatoes' and 'Shank of Llanwenog Lamb Slow-Cooked with White Wine, Tomatoes, Thyme & Potato Gratin' listed among the mains.
Desserts are equally seasonal, but temptations such as 'Blackberry Tart with Berkley Farm Cream'; 'Vanilla Cheesecake with Spiced Plum Compote'; 'Dark Chocolate Brownie' and 'Sticky Toffee Pudding' set the style.
Local Cheeses, a Children's Menu and a friendly atmosphere complete the picture.
- Food Style: Best Pubs for Food
- Lunch: Mon-Sat 12.00-14.30, Sun 12.30-15.30: mains £10 to £25
- Dinner: Mon-Sat 18.30-21.30; mains £10 to £25; Mon-Weds Early-Bird Suppers £8.50 (1 course) before 19.30; Monday is 'Pie Night'
- Seats: 45, plus about 20 outside
- Wine: a concise organic list has moderate mark-ups
- Children's portions: Children's Menu
- Directions: See the map at the top of the page
- Parking: Yes
- Closed: D Sun, all Mon (except Bank Holidays)